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Numerical modeling and experiments for solitary wave shoaling and breaking over a sloping beach

Abstract : This research deals with the validation of fluid dynamic models,used for simulating shoaling and breaking solitary waves on slopes,based on experiments performed at the Ecole Sup'erieure d'Ing'enieurs deMarseille's (ESIM) laboratory. A separate paper, also presented at thisconference, reports on experiments. In a first part of this work, a fullynonlinear potential flow model based on a Boundary Element Method(BEM) developed at the University of Rhode Island (URI), is used togenerate and propagate solitary waves over a slope, up to overturning,in a set-up closely reproducing the laboratory tank geometry andwavemaker system. The BEM model uses a boundary integral equationmethod for the solution of governing potential flow equations and anexplicit Lagrangian time stepping for time integration. In a secondpart, several Navier-Stokes (NS) models, developed respectively atTREFLE-ENSCPB, IMFT, IRPHE and LSEET are initialized based onthe BEM solution and used for modeling breaking solitary waves ina finely discretized region encompassing the top of the slope and thesurfzone. The NS models are based on the Volume of Fluid Method(VOF). This paper mostly deals with the first part, which includescalibration and comparison of BEM results with experiments, for thegeneration of solitary waves in the physical wave tank. Thus, parametersof the physical wave tank were numerically matched, including tankgeometry and motion of the wavemaker paddle corresponding to thegeneration of solitary waves. Use and coupling of the BEM and VOFmodels for the simulation of solitary wave breaking is discussed in the paper.
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  • HAL Id : hal-00084408, version 1

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Stéphan Grilli, Richard Gilbert, Pierre Lubin, Stéphane Vincent, Dominique Astruc, et al.. Numerical modeling and experiments for solitary wave shoaling and breaking over a sloping beach. 14th International offshore and polar engineering conference IGARSS, 2004, Toulon, France. Vol. 3, p. 306-312. ⟨hal-00084408⟩

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